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Tips&Advices

Run Flat Tires vs Regular Tires

Updated: May 21, 2025 by Emrecan Gurkan Leave a Comment

“I drove 40 miles on a shredded run-flat after hitting debris on I-95. Saved my road trip—but cost me $800.” – u/HighwayHero2024 on r/CarTalk

As a former Bridgestone test engineer, I’ve witnessed firsthand the performance of run-flat tires under extreme conditions. While they promise enhanced safety, they also come with trade-offs that every driver should consider.

Key Question:
Do run-flat tires truly deliver on their promise of highway safety, or do their drawbacks outweigh the benefits?

How Run-Flats Work: Engineering Under Pressure

You can click to image for reaching a great article from DiscountTire

Run-flat tires are designed to support the vehicle’s weight even after a loss of air pressure, allowing drivers to continue driving for a limited distance. This is achieved through:

  • Self-Supporting Systems: Reinforced sidewalls that can temporarily support the vehicle’s weight.

  • Support Ring Systems: A rigid ring inside the tire that maintains its shape after deflation.

Note: A Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) is essential for vehicles equipped with run-flat tires to alert drivers of pressure loss.

Self Supporting Run Flat Tires

This system is mostly used for low-profile tires. In fact, that’s the reason most sports cars have run-flat tires.

Self-supporting run-flat tires have reinforced and stiffer sidewalls that are capable of temporarily carrying the vehicle load. 

I hear the question says if it’s that easy, why other tires aren’t run-flat?

Here is the deal, reinforced sidewalls extremely decrease the riding comfort. The robust sidewalls don’t flex that much. Hence, they provide a rough ride. In fact, that’s the reason this system is generally used for low-profile tires.

Low-profile tires are used on sports vehicles because they’re lightweight tires because of their shorter sidewalls.

Since these tires are used on fast cars, they should have strong sidewalls for safe cornering. The short sidewall also helps in this case. The flexing capability of the short sidewall is limited. Hence, they provide decent cornering stability at high speeds.

About the low-profile run-flat tires, things are quite the same. The only difference is these short sidewalls are thicker. Hence, they offer more secure cornering but less comfortable rides.

Self-supported run-flat tires are a good option for aggressive drivers who put performance and security over comfortable rides.

The below video shows how self-support run-flat tires work.

Support Ring System Run Flat Tires

The self-supported run-flat system was invented by Bridgestone. The system had minor issues. Yet, it was doing its job and providing those extra miles that will take you to the mechanic.

As their biggest rival, Michelin wanted to give an answer to this technology. So, they did what they do always, put the bar higher and invented a support ring system.

Unlike the self-support system, this system has an extra element which we call a support ring.

Run-flat tires with a support ring system don’t have reinforced sidewalls. Hence, they provide a smoother drive compared to self-supported run-flat tires.

You all probably see the regular tires before mounting. Circle-shaped tires are hollow on one side and this part is designed to match the rim.

However, there is no hollow part for support ring system run-flat tires. In this section, there is a ring of hard rubber or another robust material that provides extra support in case of a puncture.

So, basically, if you get a flat tire with a support ring system, the support ring doesn’t let the rim touch the tread and keeps to tire usable.

So, the support comes from the center section, not the sidewalls. In fact, this makes these tires more comfortable than other run-flat tires. Though worth reminding, this system generally uses on high-profile tires. The low-profile tires don’t have enough place for a support ring.

The support ring system is better for daily driving.

The Highs and Lows: Data-Backed Pros and Cons

Pros:

  • Extended Mobility: Drive up to 50 miles post-puncture.

  • Eliminates Need for Spare Tire: Frees up trunk space and reduces vehicle weight.

  • Enhanced Safety: Maintains vehicle control during sudden deflation.

Cons:

  • Higher Cost: Typically 20–35% more expensive than standard tires.

  • Ride Comfort: Stiffer sidewalls can result in a harsher ride.

  • Fuel Efficiency: Slight decrease due to added weight.

  • Tread Life: Generally shorter lifespan compared to regular tires.

Real-World Data:

  • A Tire Rack study indicated that while run-flats retained better tread depth at 40,000 miles, wet braking distances increased by 15% compared to standard tires.

  • A J.D. Power survey found that 60% of run-flat users replaced tires due to irreparable damage, versus 30% for conventional tires.

Highway Emergency Scenarios: When Run-Flats Shine (or Fail)

Best For:

  • Tread Punctures: Allows safe travel to a repair facility.

  • Remote Areas: Avoids dangerous roadside tire changes.

Worst For:

  • Sidewall Damage: Often irreparable, necessitating full replacement.

  • High-Speed Blowouts: Exceeding recommended speeds post-puncture can lead to tire failure.

User Experiences:

  • u/SpeedDemon99: Ignored TPMS warning, resulting in tire explosion at 70 mph.

  • u/FrugalDriver: Replaced all four run-flats after a single puncture, costing $1,200.

Vehicle-Specific Recommendations

Vehicle Type
Run-Flat Suitability
Alternatives
Luxury Sedans (BMW, Mercedes)
Yes (often factory-equipped)
Self-sealing tires for improved comfort
SUVs/Trucks
Limited options
LT-metric tires with a full-size spare
Electric Vehicles (e.g., Tesla Model Y)
Optional
Standard tires with portable inflator kits

Case Study: A 2024 Toyota Sienna AWD equipped with Bridgestone DriveGuards successfully completed a 300-mile trip after a nail puncture, highlighting the practical benefits of run-flat technology.

Hidden Costs and Warranty Pitfalls

  • Repair Limitations: Punctures larger than 5mm or sidewall damage often cannot be repaired.

  • Warranty Exclusions: Impact damages are typically not covered under standard warranties.

  • Towing Risks: Overextending the run-flat’s limited range can still necessitate towing services.

Pro Tip: Consider pairing run-flat tires with road hazard coverage programs to mitigate unexpected replacement costs.

FAQs: Answering Drivers’ Top Concerns

Q: Can I mix run-flat with standard tires?
A: No. Mixing can lead to uneven handling and may void warranties.

Q: Are self-sealing tires better for highways?
A: They can handle minor punctures but are ineffective against sidewall damage.

Q: Do run-flats perform well in winter?
A: Limited winter-rated run-flat options exist; dedicated winter tires offer superior performance in snow and ice.

Final Checklist: Should You Switch to Run-Flats?

Choosing between the run-flat and regular tires is totally up to your expectations. In this case, you have to decide between safety or performance. Well, it doesn’t mean that run-flat tires can’t provide decent performance or that regular tires aren’t safe.

These two have different focuses. The below points will explain the situation better.

Run-Flat TiresRegular Tires
In case of puncture, it’ll take you to tire mechanicIn case of puncture, you should replace it asap
You don’t need spare tireYou should have spare tire
Durable to external impactsLasts longer
Increase your fuel consumptionOffers a slightly smoother and quieter ride
You should have tire pressure monitoring system(TPMS)Offers better handling, more responsive
Irreparable
Some of the are now repairable
(Repairability Table)
Repairable

I do highly recommend checking the below link before making any run-flat tire purchase. Since these are concept tires, following the people’s buying trend is crucial:

https://www.discounttire.com/trending/run-flat-tires

Filed Under: Tips & Guides Tagged With: Run-Flat, Tips&Advices

How Close to Sidewall Can a Tire be Patched?

Updated: December 19, 2022 by Emrecan Gurkan Leave a Comment

A damaged tire can be fixed with a patch. Some might not know this but tire patching is liable to regulations. Therefore, inaccurate tire patching might invalidate your car insurance in case of an accident. Due to avoid this, the location of the damage can be one of the biggest decision-makers in repairability. Especially, the distance to the sidewall. But, how close to the sidewall can be tire patched? Let’s see!

If you’d like to read technical articles –> https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0307904X05002507

While white figure shows the shape of tire before lateral forces apply, dark figure shows how it looks like under the lateral forces. You may clearly see that shoulders and sidewalss are streching most.
Red --> Non-repairable, Green --> Repairable

In summary, any damage that occurs on the center section of the tire can be patched. That means the entire length from shoulder to shoulder can be patched. 

The reason behind this is simple. Even though the tires look like only contain rubber, they comprise steel and nylon as well as rubber. These materials are playing a huge role regarding keep tires’ integrity. Yet, due to their stiff textures, they create stress during wheeling. The stress mostly gathers on the shoulders and sidewalls. For this reason, any damage that occurs on the shoulder or sidewall can’t be patched or plugged.

How to Define Tire Sections?

Tires sections might seem so easy to separate at first blush. This’s okay for superficial classifications. Yet, when it comes to tire patching, identifying tire sections properly can save you from unnecessary tire replacement costs.

The tire contains 4 different sections,

  • Tread Center
  • Shoulder
  • Sidewall
  • Bead

Tread Center

Sections 0.5 inch from the outer edges of the first grooves can also be repaired.

The Tread center is where most of the grip and the traction are provided. The tread center is easy to identify,

  • View tire from above
  • Find the first vertical groove from each side
  • The tread is the area that stays between two grooves

If any damage occurs on the tread, you can confidently fix it. Though worth reminding, if you have a puncture on the groove, don’t try to fix it on your own and let professionals do it for you.

Shoulder

Tire shoulders can't be patched or plugged

The tire shoulder is the area of the tire between the tread center and the tire sidewall. The tire shoulder may look different or may look like the tread center. While off-road tires mostly have a similar shoulder with their tread center, the other segments have different designs from the tread center.

The Tread center and sidewalls are protected and supported by the shoulder. In fact, this is also one of the reasons why tire shoulders can’t be patched. The patched tire shoulder generally loses its stiffness. Since these sections absorb the most lateral force, it’s extremely dangerous the weaken these parts.

Note: You may think that this little decay doesn’t change anything. Yet, tires are very sensitive technology products in terms of load distribution. While 2-3 psi inflation pressure can cause irregular wear, don’t try to underestimate little plugs or patches that can ruin all load distribution.

Sidewalls

The sidewall is the area between two red circles

Tire sidewalls are the portion between the shoulder and the bead. When you leave your wheel at the starting position and look at your vehicle from the side, the portion you see is a sidewall.

The simplest task of the sidewalls is to maintain the shape of the tire. Though, depending on the tire segment, sidewalls can enhance load capacity. Moreover, they might have protection tasks depending on the ply rate of the sidewall.

Such as off-road tires. Although these tires have thick sidewalls, they also have sidewall protectors as an extra.

The very latest task of the sidewall possesses information about tires. DOT number, size, speed index, load index, or the place of manufacturing. Any information can be found on the tire if you know how to read it.

If you’d like to learn how to read tire size –> https://tireterrain.com/how-to-read-tire-size/

No matter what type of damage you have, bubble, puncture, or anything else, sidewall damage isn’t repairable.

The only situation that might not need a repair is sidewall cracking. Some cracks can even be repaired. However, this fix is purely visual. If the crack has progressed deeper, the operation is meaningless. Therefore, I personally recommend that if you see cracks in your sidewalls, you should consult a professional and have your tire replaced as soon as possible.

If you’d like to know more about sidewall cracking and repair –> https://simpletire.com/learn/tire-maintenance-safety/cracked-tires

Bead

Tire bead from the outside

The bead is the reinforced part of the tire that sits on the rim. 

It works as a seal between the tire and the rim and restrains air leaking.

Bead damage doesn’t see so often. Yet, if the damage really occurs on the bead, the tire should be replaced.

However, bead issues are generally caused by rim bending. Hence, rearranging the rim place can fix the problem.

The bead issue could be vital. Please, do not underestimate them. A slow leak rapidly turns into a vent hole and causes a crucial accident.

If you’d like to learn more — > https://simpletire.com/learn/tire-maintenance-safety/tire-bead

This is what happen if you underestimate bead issues

Conclusion

The tread center is the only portion that is repairable on the tire. If you have any damage on the sidewall, shoulder, or bead, you should replace your tire.

Still, the inner part of the shoulder sometimes can be repairable. In this case, the limit is 1/2”. So, you can add 1/2” to each side of the tread center and find the exact location of the repairable area.

Take-home points,

  • Puncture greater than 1/4” inch can’t be repaired
  • If any damage occurs on the previously repaired area, the tire can’t be repaired
  • Tire patching isn’t a trustworthy repair. The punctured area should be filled with a plug first and strengthened with a patch
  • Run-flat tires aren’t recommended to repair
  • If you have 2/32” or less tread, you should replace your tire

I hope the article was helpful. If you have any further questions, please leave them in the below section. If you want me to decide whether your tire is repairable or not, you can leave the photo links in the comment section.

This is your money or your life situation. Taking a risk in these kinds of situations isn’t make sense. Please, stay on the safe side folks. Have a safe ride!

Filed Under: Tips & Guides Tagged With: Tips&Advices, Tire patching

How to Tell If Tires are Directional?

Updated: October 3, 2023 by Emrecan Gurkan Leave a Comment

Tires have different pattern types that can give you a clue about their performance. Directional tires are one of them. In this article, I’ll briefly explain what are the directional tires and help you determine if the tire is directional or not. Let’s begin

What are Directional Tires?

Directional tires are tires that can only rotate one way. When you look at such tires, you’ll see lateral grooves that show forward and down. Basically, you’ll see a V-shape on the tire pattern.

Due to their compact contact patch and the V-shaped channels, these tires offer better performance than asymmetrical and symmetrical tires. While V-shape channels evacuate the water much better and offer better hydroplaning resistance, compact contact patch offers better handling. So, these tires are perfect for high-speed lovers.

On the other hand, due to their design, these tires are hard to rotate. If you’d like to rotate them from left to right, you should dismount the tire from the wheel and remount it before installing.

How to Identify Directional Tires?

The easiest way is the check outside sidewalls. Directional tires have an arrow at the sidewall that shows the rotation way. Near this arrow, you might see ‘Rotation’ or ‘Direction’ words.

Well, this method is for newbies and sometimes the rotation arrow is wiped away. So, how to identify it from the pattern?

Directional tires generally have solid center rib and V-shaped grooves that go through the shoulders. If these V-shaped grooves only show the same point, that means your tire is directional. In this case, the only thing you have to do is mount the tire in the same way that the V-shaped shows.

Note: Some directional tires can be only used on the left or right side of the vehicle. In that case, the manufacturer indicates the using side on the sidewall.

Directional Tires Rotation Pattern

As I mentioned before, the rotation of directional tires could be difficult. In this case, the game-changer is your wheel for formation.

If your vehicle has a staggered wheel formation(different sizes on rear and front), you should demount the tire from the wheel, change its direction and remount it. This process sometimes takes too much time due to the firm’s bead construction of high-performance tires.

On the other hand, if your vehicle has the same tire size on the rear and the front axle, the process needs a short amount of time and less action.

Front-to-Back Rotation

Front-to-Back Tire Rotation
Tire positions before the rotation
Front-to-Back Tire Rotation
Tire positions after the rotation

Front the back rotation can be used on vehicles that have the same size on both axles.

Since the tires on each side of the vehicle rotate in the same direction, the only thing you have to do is change the tire positions on between same side(front right to rear right, front left of rear left).

Side-to-Side Rotation

Side-to-Side Tire Rotation
Tire positions before the rotation
Side-to-Side Tire Rotation
Tire positions after the rotation

Side-to-side rotation is a tiring process for mechanicals. However, it’s a must for staggered tire formation.

Since the rear and front axle tires are differently sized, there is no way to rotate these tires front-to-back. So, side-to-side rotation is the only solution.

The disadvantage is side-to-side rotation is it needs too many processes. Since the directional tires don’t have zero offsets, you should demount the tires from the wheel, change the direction, remount it and reassemble them to the opposite side of the vehicle.

Note: Wheel alignment is crucial for this rotation type. If your mechanic doesn’t realign your wheels, remind him.

Can I use them on Backwards?

Directional tires can’t be used backward. Directional tires have solid handling, grip, and water evacuation capability due to their V-shaped pattern. If you backward directional tires,

  • Biting edges won’t work as before, so, you’ll lose grip
  • V-shaped grooves can’t direct the water inside the grooves, so, hydroplaning surely occur.
  • Since the backward V-shaped has higher rolling resistance, you’ll consume more gas
  • Since the tire is designed to perform in the one direction, its handling capability will decrease significantly

Are Directional Tires More Expensive?

Yes, directional tires are more expensive.

Directional tires are built for high-performance.  Hence, they should be durable and lightweight at the same time. Due to achieving these goals, manufacturers should use different materials for an internal structure. Well, these materials cost more for manufacturers, inherently, the tires cost more for users.

Can I mix Directional and Non-directional tires?

Even though I don’t recommend it at all, in theory, yes, you can use them at the same time. Only with one condition, you should pair directional tires on the same axle.

So, in this case, you should closely follow your rotation time and check wheel alignment at a certain time period. Though worth reminding, since you should rotate directional tires side-to-side, it might cost you more than 2 tires in a long-time. Side-to-side rotation isn’t cheap.

Conclusion

Directional tires are elegant high-performance tires. You can easily define them by looking at the sidewall or checking the tread pattern which must be V or Y shaped(with a solid center rib add-on).

If you don’t wanna waste your time, check if your tire is on this list.

TireRack’s Directional Tires List;

https://tires.tirerack.com/tires/Directional%20Tires

I hope the article was helpful. If you have any further questions, please leave them in the below section.

Filed Under: Tips & Guides Tagged With: Directional Tires, Tips&Advices

Can I Replace Just One Tire?

Updated: September 21, 2023 by Emrecan Gurkan Leave a Comment

Replacing only one tire isn’t recommended in most cases. However, depending on the current condition of other tires, you might keep two or even three of them if you’re lucky.

In this article, I will share with you how many tires you need to change under which conditions. Let’s begin!

Replacing One Tire

Image-1
Right after get flat tire
Image-2
Arrangement after the mounting new tire
Image-3
Right before make the last rotation
Image-4
Tire positions after final arrangement

Since you’re all here to save some money, let’s begin with the one tire replacement conditions. Thought worth reminding, I don’t recommend it unless you don’t have any other choice.

One-tire replacement isn’t applicable for 4WD or all-wheel drive vehicles. However, if the other three of your tires are kinda new, you can change only one tire.

In this case, you should follow the maximum tread depth difference limit which is 3/32” between the rear and the front axle and 2/32” for the same axle.

To apply this strategy, the tread depth difference between the rear and front axle can’t be more than 2/32” and your tires should wear a maximum of 3/32”.

You should buy the same size and same pattern to apply my strategy.

For RWD vehicles,

  1. For instance, let’s say you have a new set of tires that has 10/32” tread depth when it’s new. Since you have an RWD vehicle, your rear axle will wear more. 
  2. After a couple of months, your front right tire got flat. At the moment, you have 8/32” tread left for the steer axle and 7/32” for the rear axle(Image-1).
  3. So, you buy one new tire. Contrary to theory, you should mount the new tire on the right rear axle and rotate the right rear axle tire to the front right(Image-2).
  4. Well, the critical point is you should check your tread depths constantly. Since your rear tires wear more than the fronts, at some point, the new tire on your rear axle closes the tread depth gap with the front right one(Image-3).
  5. The last step is the final rotation. For this step, all of our tires will go back to their starting position. So, the new tire will mount the front right axle(Image-4).

For FWD vehicles,

Since the front axle tires wear more for FWD vehicles, to apply this strategy, your flat tire should be on the rear axle. The remaining steps are the same.

For 4WD,

Strategy isn’t applicable.

Note: You need at least 2 rotations to align your tires. Moreover, this isn’t a guaranteed strategy and you should make a wheel alignment on every step. So, buying two tires can be cheaper for you.

Replacing Two Tires

Replacing two tires is the most common move when you have a flat tire. It’s also way much safer than replacing one tire. However, this one also has restrictions to follow.

For FWD,

As I’ve mentioned in the previous section, the tread depth difference between the rear and front axle can’t be more than 3/32”. So, if your tires wear more than 3/32”, you have to change 4 of your tires.

Let’s say your rear tires are worn 2/32”. In this case, your front tires most probably are worn more than 3/32”. So, in this case, you should keep the less worn tires on the rear axle and mount new ones to the front axle.

For RWD,

Just do the opposite. Use new tires on the rear axle and mount worn ones to the front axle.

Note: New pair of tires is recommended to use on the front axle due to prevent hydroplaning. In our case, hydroplaning isn’t an issue for higher tread depth. However, after your front and rear tires close the gap, I recommend using less worn tires on the front axle. 

For 4WD,

Not recommended. If you wanna do it, please read the owner’s manual.

Replacing 4 Tires

This is the securest way to replace tires. However, it’s a pricy. Well, if your tires wear more than 3/32”, this is a must for you. If don’t, I still recommend it to stay on the safe side.

In this case, I don’t have too much to recommend but pay attention to the load and speed indexes of your new tires.

Note: In my point of view replacing 4 tires is a must for 4WD vehicles.

Tire Shaving

Let’s say you still have tons of tread on your healthy tires but you can’t match them with new ones due to restrictions.

Good news, tire shaving on your service.

Some dealers have this option. They shave new tires to match with existing ones. However, this option needs expertise. 

In this case, the only dealer that I can recommend is TireRack. If you’ll ask them to shave your tires in the buying process, they’ll handle the situation for 20-40$.

Here is a perfect document from them –> https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=259&

Conclusion

Even though I’ve offered a solution, I don’t recommend changing one tire. It needs too much effort and you might hurt your suspensions if you don’t follow the process closely. Instead of doing this, find somewhere that shaves the tires and aligns the tread depth of new tires with old ones.

I hope the article was helpful. If you have any further questions please leave them in the below section. Please don’t forget, this is your money or your life situation. Replace all four tires if your specialist recommends. Have a safe ride folks!

Filed Under: Tips & Guides Tagged With: Replacing Tires, Tips&Advices

UTQG Rating Meaning: Are They Useful?

Updated: September 21, 2023 by Emrecan Gurkan Leave a Comment

You may not hear about UTQG but most of you probably see the words ‘Treadwear’, ‘Traction’, and ‘Temperature’ on the sidewall of your tires.

UTQG stands for Uniform Tire Quality Grade and it contains useful information for customers. Let’s dive into its process and what each grade indicates and how can you use them for your tire selection!

Note: Light truck and winter tires aren’t require a UTQG test.

How do UTQG Grades Determine?

Even though some think these tests are conducted by DOT or NHTSA, in fact, manufacturers or 3rd parties conduct this test and report to DOT. However, due to privacy policies, DOT can’t publish detailed test results but only the grades. DOT rearranges these data and publishes a brief and simple version of the test results.

UTQG Test Process

The test process is different for each grade.

  • Treadwear Grade: Actual road use in West Texas. The test circuit is 400-miles long and the tire takes 18 laps(a total of 7200-miles).
  • Traction Grade: The test tires are pulled on a “skid trailer” at 40mph over wet asphalt and concrete test surfaces
  • Temperature Rating: This is an indoor test. Generally conducted by 3rd parties. The tire run against a high-speed drum.

Treadwear Grade

This test is performed under the actual conditions. Therefore, it might seem a bit more accurate than the others for you. Unfortunately, it’s wrong.

The tire runs only 7200-miles which is a nominal mileage compared to the real life span of the tires(50,000-100,000 miles). Moreover, the compound of the tire has different layers. For instance, while the first couple millimeters of tread are made of firm rubber, the rest can be made of softer rubber. Obviously, soft rubber wears faster. So, the extrapolation of the manufacturers becomes kinda useless in that case.

Restrictions of the test,

  • Each lap takes 400-miles
  • Tires are rotated in every 800-miles
  • Wheels are aligned in every 800-miles
  • Inflation pressure is checked in every 800-miles

Under the above rules, the test tire and reference tire run in the same conditions. After the 7200-miles have been done, the tread depth of both tires is checked.

The reference tire always has a treadwear great of 100. So, if the test tire and reference tire have the same tread depth, the UTQG of the test tire is also 100.

For instance, if the test tire is expected 2 times more than the reference tire, then the UTQG of the test tire is 200. So, for a simple comparison, you may divide UTQG numbers by 100.

In my point of view, the most efficient usage of UTQG treadwear is comparing two tires. For example, you’re debating between two tires. While one of them has a 250 UTQG grade other has 600. In that case, the tire with 600 grade is expected to last 2.4 times longer(if 250 grade lasts for 10,000 miles, 600 grade lasts for 24,000 miles).

If you’d like to learn how to get the longest tread life –> https://tireterrain.com/how-to-make-tires-last-longer/

Traction Grade

The traction grade is based on the stopping distance on the wet ground. Though worth reminding, this grade doesn’t indicate dry performance or any other wet performance like hydroplaning or cornering.

The test tires pull a ‘skid trailer’ at 40 mph. The brakes are locked for a short time in a period. So, the sensor on the wheel measures the coefficient of a locked tire. Well, after a couple of calculations, the coefficient turns into a wet stopping distance.

Since the majority of vehicles have anti-locked brakes, this test isn’t aligned with real-life conditions. However, it can still give you an idea about wet stopping distance.

The test is conducted on two different surfaces Asphalt and concrete. Depending on the surface, the grade limits change.

Traction GradesAsphalt g-ForceConcrete g-Force
AAAbove 0.540.38
AAbove 0.470.35
BAbove 0.380.26
CLess Than 0.380.26

Temperature Grade

The heat is the enemy of the tire. So, the temperature grade simply measures the heat resistance of the tire.

Better heat resistance means that the tire can reach a higher speed.

Since all tires have a speed index, the main goal of this test is how the tires act on a long run at high speed.

Temperature GradesSpeeds in mph
AOver 115
BBetween 100 to 115
CBetween 85 to 100

While A means higher temperature resistance, C states the lowest one. Though worth reminding, the tires don’t reach at least C level can’t be released in the USA.

Conclusion

UTQG ratings are the assurance of the government. So, using them for comparison isn’t accurate. The grades can give you and preliminary idea. Yet, you should know that these are calculations, not real-life data.

I hope the article was helpful. If you have any further questions, please leave them in the below section. Have a safe ride folks!

Filed Under: Tips & Guides Tagged With: Tips&Advices, UTQG

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